Bonsai Green ThumbHow to Grow and Care for Bonsai Trees

Trimming your (first) Bonsai tree can be challenging. You have the right tools, but you’re still wondering “is this a good idea?”  Well, you might want to read this first : )  .

Before we start, if you are a beginner to the bonsai, I highly recommend you check out this book. It’s a step by step guide to all you need to know about bonsai, and guess what? It’s in plain and simple English with actual pictures. This will most likely save you time, money and most importantly, your bonsai!

Bonsai trimming is definitely an art. By trimming your bonsai plant, you are not only shaping it up to look artistic, but you are also helping to keep it small and growing healthy. Most bonsai trees will only need to be trimmed two or three times a year. It is important that you learn about the type of tree you have so that you can prune it at the right time or you may end up with a “not-so-happy” bonsai plant. But as a general rule of thumb, trimming times are,  1) at the start of spring, 2) at the end of summer, and sometimes 3) during late autumn or winter. For the most part, the bulk of the trimming should be done at the start of spring when your bonsai plant will be experiencing vigorous growth. You can always talk to the specialist at the bonsai nursery when buying your tree or get this guide to learn when you should do the trimming for that specific type of tree etc.

Many beginners make the mistake of shearing their bonsai as they would a bush or hedge. Rather than a big bushy bunch, you want your plant to look more like a miniature replica of a mature tree. Keep the branches growing toward open space and away from each other. Don’t get too carried away with pruning; bonsai just like normal trees need to have enough leaves as they are the primary organs of photosynthesis*. Only excess leaves and unwanted limbs should be removed.

*Photosynthesis is the process in which the energy of sunlight is collected and used to make sugars. These sugars are then transported to other parts of the tree and used for nutrition.

Heavy trimming usually only takes place once or twice in the life of a bonsai Plant. Nipping or pinching is the technique used after the basic shape and form of the tree is established. This involves pinching back any new and unwanted growth either at the top of the plant or growth that doesn’t come within the general and desired shape of your bonsai tree. It is performed by holding the branch with one hand and pinching the unwanted growth between the forefinger and thumb of the other and removing it with a twisting motion.
This is one of the main forms of pruning, especially Evergreen Coniferous bonsai like Cedars and Hemlock (Tsuga Canadensis or Tsuga Heterophylla) .For these types of bonsai trees it is better than using scissors as they will leave an unnatural look and browning may occur on the leaves. It’s also a good and easy way to control new growth, shape the plant, and help develop good foliage.

When your bonsai plant is still young, it’s a good idea to leave the branches that surround any weak parts of the tree trunk. This will help it to become stronger. Removing branches from areas where several are growing helps to reduce the cluttered look as well as keep the area from being overrun with foliage. Thinning out some of the branches in the right places will make a better-looking as well as healthier tree.

When you are doing your bonsai trimming, make sure that you get an even look. Cutting away too many branches while ignoring the trunk will cause the tree to grow awkwardly. It will do this in an attempt to balance itself out. The following season, it may look strange and not at all as you planned. To prevent this, trim the trunk in proportion to the branches and vice versa. In other words, make sure to balance out the height of the tree with the width so it looks natural.

The bonsai trimming tools that you use on your tree should be suitable for the tree’s size. You do not want to use large shears to trim a miniature tree. Likewise, you need fatter blades to effectively snip off the branches of a full size bonsai. The blades should be short and sharp so they can make clean cuts. Dull blades can damage the tree, especially when used on the trunk. But I’ll post more on tools later.

After trimming your bonsai, training wire can be used to force the branches of your bonsai tree to grow in a certain way. Bonsai specialists sometimes use this material if they want a certain look for their tree. It will not harm* the tree’s branches at all. Here’s a simple example…

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Though the art of bonsai can be very daunting to newcomers when they first start out, in reality it is as simple as you make it. There are many species and varieties of trees available to grow; many new techniques that can be learned to improve bonsai appearance and a seemingly unfathomable quantity of do’s and don’ts.  The most important aspect as a beginner is to learn how to simply maintain the shape of your tree and keep it alive.

Learn to look after your first tree successfully and your confidence grows enough to widen your horizons and successfully learn more advanced techniques such as reselling and creating bonsai. But don’t run before you walk. The first fundamental rules to learn when embarking on this art is that you are dealing with something living and ever-changing; the basic rules of horticulture need be learned before you can successfully maintain your tree.
There are many bonsai techniques available for the bonsai enthusiast to use to reach the ultimate goal of a beautiful tree. Confusingly, information available on the many bonsai websites and books can often be contradictory. It should be understood that for every objective such as repotting, pruning or styling there are a 100 different techniques or viewpoints.

Some are based on horticultural fact, some are based on horticultural myth and some are based on horticultural luck!  In fact many of these techniques will work to one degree or another.  Unfortunately though not killing your tree, some advice and/or techniques can result in diminished vigor as your trees cope under stress.  Sound advice based on simple horticultural fact can only improve the health, appearance and vigor of your tree. It is for you to learn which techniques work for you and your tree in your given situation.

Just don’t get in a hurry.  They say that Rome wasn’t built in a day.  Bonsai aren’t grown in a short time either.  Bonsai certainly takes time, but the rewards are great.  Once it grows and is shaped to your liking, you will have formed something that is all your own.  It will be something to be proud of – something to display – something to take credit for.

In the movie “The Karate Kid”, Mr. Miyagi would tell Daniel that

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Bonsai is not an art of perfection.  It is an art of scope and personal preference.  You will make mistakes.  This is normal and occurs even with bonsai masters.

You will kill trees. This is a sad fact of the activity, especially as you start out. You are dealing with living things, and you must be respectful of that. Commit yourself to understanding why every tree dies and what can be done to prevent it. Learn from your mistakes and do your best to prevent them in the future.

Perhaps most importantly, understand that when you put a tree in a pot you are committing yourself to the care of that tree. You cannot simply ignore it or it will die. Bonsai is a responsibility as well as a hobby. If you practice it with care and patience, he rewards are tremendous.

Almost nothing in bonsai is immediate. Expect your trees to develop over years, even decades. It may be ten years or longer before your plant will actually be a “bonsai.” Don’t be discouraged by this, but think of it as part of the experience.

Don’t fiddle! The temptation for beginners is to continually fiddle with their tree(s), cutting bits off here and there, continually watering, misting, moving them around etc. Checking daily for water requirements and health problems is necessary, but otherwise leave the tree to grow and simply enjoy looking at it!

Pruning back to shape is necessary but don’t continually jump onto every out of place leaf. In order to keep the tree healthy and vigorous it needs to be able to grow freely at times.

It is also important to remember timing is very important, don’t carry out jobs such as repotting or major restyling at the wrong time of the year as this can lead to poor health in the tree and lack of vigor. A tree repotted at the wrong time of year for instance may survive if you are lucky, it may even grow a bit, but, it will very rarely reward you with vigor.

It is particularly important not to stress the tree by doing several operations at the same time. Let the tree rest between for example wiring and replanting. Just as a human being needs time to recuperate from surgery, a bonsai tree needs the same treatment.

Plants are living things, and they need full recovery from one operation, before the next step is taken.  A rule Read the rest of this entry »

When you have finished working on your tree, you will want to find a nice place to display it for all to see. The way your bonsai are displayed is as important as their pots, the types of trees and the styles of the trees. The exact secret for adding to their beauty by the setting they live in is just as elusive as the art of bonsai itself.

Ideally, your bonsai should be positioned so that the front faces forward and the tree is roughly eye level. Trees should never be placed directly on the ground.

As your collection grows, you will want to create a display stand of some sort. You may choose to display bonsai alone on a single stand or together on a larger bench. Most important, you should make sure that the tree is positioned so that it either gets the light it needs or is sheltered from the sun if it requires shade.

Remember that simplicity is very important in Japanese aesthetics and bonsai should be displayed in an uncluttered environment where the details of the plant can be appreciated. This is, after all, a wonder of nature — trees and shrubs made miniature.

Gravel beds in the garden are good backgrounds for bonsai outdoors, and a simple stand or table before a blank wall makes an appropriate setting indoors.

Try your bonsai in different locations around your house – both indoors and out if the weather and space permit. A single display on a window ledge or the sunny spot on a bookshelf may be just the thing to give specific rooms elegance and a personal, lived-in touch.

Put a redwood or bamboo shelf unit in a quiet, reflective room that offers light and air for a grouped display of all your creations that can create an indoor-garden effect.

Turn the entry hall of your home into a formal walk-through of bonsai that gives a warm and yet highly stylized feel to set the tone for the whole house.

Make a patio or deck into a nature-viewing area that provides guests and family hours of pleasure and quiet Read the rest of this entry »

As the seasons change, the bonsai grower must take into consideration the circumstances and dilemmas that might affect their plants.  Because the trees aren’t in the ground, you need to do what you have to in order to insure your bonsai survive the seasons.

Bonsai from forest trees must live outdoors except for short periods of time when they may be brought inside for viewing. These indoor periods should only be for two or three hours and should not occur at all in summer unless the interior is well ventilated.

In the summer, bonsai need cool nights, sunny days, and mist or rain almost daily. If your climate does not offer these conditions naturally, you must supply them. Avoid any extremes in temperature, light, rain, and wind. Water the entire plant daily, but do not let them become water logged.

Placing bonsai on a slatted stand in the garden is a good way to keep drainage conditions optimum. Bonsai should receive three to five hours of direct sunlight a day, but the site should be shaded in the afternoon if possible.

In the fall, bonsai must be prepared for the winter. Slow the growth of the plants by watering less frequently and discontinuing fertilizer application. Do not prune or cut any branches after mid-August.

Winter’s low temperatures and drying winds can easily kill bonsai. If the winter temperature drops below 28F, bonsai must be protected by a greenhouse, pit, or cold frame. A cold frame is basically a box that houses your bonsai through the winter months.

If you put them in a cold frame, don’t forget to water them while inside. Winter watering may be only necessary every other day. More bonsai are killed by over watering than by desiccation.

In the spring, start new bonsai, prune the old ones, and continue training measures. The remaining part of the growing season is used for the plants’ adjustments to these practices.

In general, bonsai are fine being outside in temperatures above 15F.  Below this point, some kind of protection from freezing is needed.  You can bring them inside, but this could jeopardize the plant’s health.  In extreme circumstances, this may be your only option.

Just remember that woody plants must go through a period of cold dormancy to survive.  If you do not give them this time, they will die.

Dormancy is a survival strategy that temperate climate species have evolved to stay alive over the winter. These species have a biological clock that tells them to slow activity and prepare soft tissues for an onslaught of freezing temperatures. Species that have well developed dormancy needs cannot be tricked out of them.

You can try placing a tarp or plastic film over your bonsai in cold temperatures.  Do this at night and remove it during the day.

Some people advocate wintering bonsai in the ground since the ground temperature will not get as cold as the air above it.

Experts feel the best way to accomplish that is to bury the root balls, still in their pots, in the ground up to Read the rest of this entry »

Bonsai are generally re-potted and re-pruned every few years.  Re-potting prevents them from being pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.  You will also need to change the soil to prevent it from becoming stale and hindering growth.

You can tell that a bonsai needs repotting if water takes a long time to drain through the soil or if the roots are crowding around the sides.

To repot, carefully lift the tree out of its current pot by tilting it to one side and trying to move it by the base of the trunk. You can not pull too hard on the trunk – so if this does not work, try tapping the pot with the side of your hand to loosen the root ball or poke a stick through the drainage holes and ‘push’ the root ball out.

Next, using a chopstick, knitting needle, metal hook or similar, remove any moss or accent plants and carefully try to brush and untangle the roots. Start at the edge and gradually work around. Try to ‘comb’ and ‘tug’ rather than to ‘pull’ at the roots – for risk of damaging or tearing some very important main roots.

After this has been done – continue to shake and brush off the soil until about one third to half of the original soil has been removed from the edge and base of the root ball.

It would now be a good idea to spray the roots with water to ensure that they do not dry out and so that they will not have too much soil on them when it comes time to pruning the roots.

To prune the roots, use very sharp cutters. There are bonsai root pruning scissors commercially available, however you could just use a normal pair of bonsai clippers.

If you have washed away most loose soil the scissors will stay sharp, but if they have to cut through soil as well as the roots – they will become blunt very quickly and require sharpening.

Start by cutting the thick, old brown roots that have come close to the edge of the pot and are restricting the growth of the young ‘feeder roots’. Remove a third to a half of these – being careful that you do not remove too many feeder roots in the process.

Next, prune the thinner roots which hang below the depth of the pot by trimming them all into a suitable shape that the pot will accommodate. This should be a shape that fits comfortably into the pot with a 1-2 cm (1/2 to 3/4 in) space between the edges.

The demanding part of the repotting is now over – if you think that you’ve cut too many feeder roots off, the tree will be disadvantaged but you probably will get away with it – as new roots will grow from the cuts.

Clean the original pot thoroughly or select a new pot that is more suited to the tree and cover the drainage holes with simple wire mesh. As the plant will now be unstable in the new pot as it has nothing to anchor it – you need to make some anchors to prevent the tree from falling over from winds or from being moved.

Thread some wire through the drainage holes or specially designed holes for anchoring and leave for later use.  This wire doesn’t have to be very thick.

Add a thin layer of gravel to aid drainage and then a layer of soil. Moving the tree around, decide a basic position for it (usually off-center and slightly to the back of the pot) and make a small mound that it will sit on. Now you can place your bonsai on the mound by gently nestling it in and spreading its roots out evenly throughout on top of the soil.

Once you are happy with the height and position of your tree (it is going to stay like that for 1-2 years), take Read the rest of this entry »

Watering might seem like an easy technique, but it is the second most common cause of Bonsai-related problems. Under watering or allowing the compost to dry out completely will instantly kill or badly damage most trees; however over watering can just as equally cause ill-health and eventual death from root rot and disease.
The most important rule to remember is that trees should be checked for their water requirement daily but should only be watered as required. You should never water to a routine.  This can lead to continually sodden compost which literally suffocates the roots.

The surface of the compost must be starting to dry out between watering.  Then the tree can be thoroughly watered again. The time between watering can vary from 12 hours to 7 days depending on factors such as prevailing temperatures, wind and humidity levels.

Because of limited space in the confines of a bonsai pot, bonsai care can be quite difficult. The shallow containers limit the expanse of the root system and make proper watering practically an art in itself.

While some species can handle periods of relative dryness, others require near-constant moisture. Watering too frequently or allowing the soil to remain soggy can promote fungal infections and “root rot”.

Sun, heat and wind exposure can quickly dry a bonsai tree to the point of drought, so the soil moisture should be monitored daily and water given copiously when needed. The soil should not be allowed to become “bone dry” even for brief periods.

The foliage of some plants cultivated for bonsai, including the common Juniper do not display signs of drying and damage until long after the damage is done, and may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.

When fertilizing bonsai you should do so with a water-soluble fertilizer once or twice per month during the Read the rest of this entry »

With the large number of tree species commonly used for bonsai and the wide variation of climates in which readers will be wiring, it is impossible to state exactly when your tree should be wired. There are also pros and cons of wiring at any particular time of the year with any particular type of bonsai. Theoretically, most tree species can be wired at most times of the year though trees wired during the winter may need frost protection in certain climates.

The only time that wiring can negatively impact the health of your tree to a large degree is during winter, in areas where temperatures regularly drop below 15°F. In temperatures this cold, any fractures that have not healed will be exposed to the cold and possible future dieback of the branch.

In warmer climates, the best time to wire deciduous trees is just as the leaves fall in autumn. With the branches bare it is much easier to wire and adjust the branches with a complete view of the tree. The branches should heal all but the largest cracks or severe bends before the tree becomes completely dormant for the winter.

Deciduous trees can be wired in spring before the leaves open but great care must be taken that the new leaf or flower buds are not dislodged.  Deciduous and broadleaf trees can be wired any time through the growing season but when in leaf it is more difficult to study the structure of the tree and wiring around the leaves is more difficult. Branches wired at this time; particularly new shoots, will heal very quickly. On fast growing species, keep checking every few days that the wire is not beginning to dig in.

The second best time to wire deciduous trees is at midsummer after defoliating the tree. Again with the branches bare, wiring is clear and easy; the branches should take to their new positions before the end of autumn.

Coniferous species can be wired at any time from spring through to autumn. Coniferous species will continue to heal over winter so they can still be wired in autumn. As the wire on Coniferous species needs to be on the branches for a longer period of time; often over winter, frost protection is needed if temperatures drop below 15°F.

Coniferous species need wiring annually and need at least one complete wiring of the entire tree for a successful design.  They are best wired (particularly if heavy bends are to be made) from late midsummer through to early autumn.

By late midsummer, new growth will start to need wiring and will heal faster than at most other times of the year. Many species such as Pines will have also made most of their annual increase in branch thickness by August; wiring after this time will allow the wire to stay on the tree until the following year without cutting in and scarring the bark.

Coniferous species can be wired in the spring and this growth will set into position relatively quickly but will Read the rest of this entry »

Wiring is an important part of the process of styling your bonsai and nearly all well designed bonsai have been wired at some point in their development. Though at first a daunting technique to master, it gives the bonsai enthusiast better control and manipulation of the trunk and branches of his/her bonsai.
By coiling wire around the limbs of the bonsai, the enthusiast is able to bend the tree into a desired position upon which it is held by the wire. In a matter of weeks or months, the branch or trunk ‘learns’ and stays in position even after the wire is removed.
With the use of wire, straight trunks or branches can be given more realistic movement. Young branches can be wired into a horizontal or downward position to create the illusion of maturity. Foliage or branching can be moved to ‘fill in’ bare areas of the trees silhouette.

Without wiring, the enthusiast would otherwise have to wait for shoots to grow in the desired direction. With wiring, existing growth can be manipulated there instead.

You will use the wire to shape your bonsai into the style that most fits it.  As we have addressed before, deciding on the shape of your bonsai, study the tree carefully and take into account the natural form of the species. Observe the way mature trees of the same kind grow in their natural setting to achieve an impression of age and reality. Decide on the final shape and size of your bonsai before starting. Make a rough sketch of what you wish to create, and use it as a guide.

Aluminum wire is perhaps best to use for beginners.  Copper wire has more holding power but is a bit more difficult to maneuver.  Typically, you will need a wire thickness a 1/3 that of the trunk or branch you are trying to bend.  The wire you use must be thick enough to bend the branch effectively and for it to remain in position but thin enough for the wired branch to be manipulated and for neatness.

To make the branches flexible before wiring, do not water the plant the day before you wire it. Begin at the bottom of the tree when wiring and shaping, and work upward. Anchor the end of the wire at the base of the tree by pushing it into the soil. Use foam pads under the wire to protect the branches.

The process of wiring and bending causes a series of minute splits and fractures in the layers underneath the bark of the branch; as the cambium layer repairs and heals this damage, the new position is ‘learnt’ by the branch. The faster the branch is growing the faster it heals, the sooner the wire can be removed without a return to its original position.

Where possible the wire should be applied at a 45° to the direction of the branch that is to be wired.  Hold the beginning of the wire/anchor point firmly with your left hand at all times; as you coil the wire further down the branch, you can also move the position that you secure using this hand. At all times, the wire that has already been applied should not be able to move while you continue to wire the remainder of the branch.
With the wire in your right hand, feed the wire through your thumb and first finger as you make a circling motion with your wrist around the branch; carefully work down the branch towards your body.
You can either cut a length of wire approximately 1/3 longer than the branch you are wiring or as I prefer, you can keep the reel of wire in the palm of your hand and cut to length when you have reached the tip of the branch. Always wire from the base of the branch to the very tip.

The last turn of the wire should be at 90° to the direction of the branch to secure the end of the wire at the very tip.
On fast growing species it can be worth wiring more loosely to reduce the risk of the wire cutting into the trunk.  When wiring an entire tree, always start with the trunk, wire the primary branches and then the secondary branches.

Bend branches slowly and steadily. Listen and watch for signs of the branch cracking and splitting. If it does, STOP! The thicker the branch, the more force that will be needed to bend and the less ‘elastic’ the wood. The branches of certain tree species are especially prone to splitting or snapping whatever their size.

You should learn which tree species have branches that are likely to snap rather than bend comes with experience. When wiring an unfamiliar species for the first time, test the tension of the branch with your finger prior to coiling the wire.

Some species are virtually impossible to bend to any real degree without the branches splitting. These can only be wired when branches are very young and haven’t ‘hardened off’.

If possible, use your hands as a clamp holding the outside of the branch with your fingers, push and bend the branch from the inside of the curve with your thumbs. This gives firmer control while spreading the force of the bend around the outside of the branch where it is most likely to split.

Bending branches at the point where they grow from the trunk can be hazardous; some species can be prone Read the rest of this entry »

A great deal of pruning is often necessary if starting with a nursery plant. Only excess foliage and undesirable limbs should be removed.  Make all cuts above a bud, a side branch, or a main fork of the tree. Remove all buds except those on the outside of the trunk to force growth outward and upward. Leave stubs flush with the stems. Avoid cutting back so far that the main branches are weakened.

Do not shear bonsai as you would a hedge; the objective is to make the plant look like a replica of a mature tree. Keep branches growing toward open space and away from each other.  Do not prune too zealously; plants must have sufficient leaves for photosynthesis.

Heavy pruning usually only takes place once in the life of the bonsai. Once the basic form is established, shaping is done by nipping or pinching back. This procedure controls new growth. Nipping is done to shape the plant and to develop luxurious foliage. Nip off tiny spurs that appear on the trunk before they are large enough to leave scars when removed.

Roots must also be trimmed. Try to keep all fibrous roots and maintain a balance of one branch for one root if at all possible. Remove any roots that were damaged in digging. Leave surface roots intact. Prune the roots with sharp, sloping cuts to avoid damaging them.

Pruning is necessary to maintain the right shape of a bonsai and encourage new growth. Some plants naturally respond well to pruning, regardless of how intense, while other plants can find it hard to recover, especially when pruned at the wrong time of the year.

To prune correctly you must find out the type of plant your bonsai is and research when the best times are to prune old and new season growth. Generally, new growth is pruned during the growing season to maintain the shape of the bonsai, while pruning of hard wood (old season growth) is done in mid-autumn.

One of the main forms of pruning for bonsai, especially evergreen coniferous bonsai such as junipers and cedars is ‘finger pruning’. This involves pinching back new growth which does not come within the general shape of the bonsai or is at the top of the bonsai – helping to encourage bushy foliage and a more tree-like looking bonsai.

To do this, take the growth between your thumb and forefinger while holding the branch with your other hand and remove with a twisting movement. This is better than trimming the growth with scissors.  Using scissors leaves an unnatural look and leaves the foliage an unsightly brown.

For deciduous trees such as maples, the Chinese elm and cotoneaster, scissor tip pruning is best. When trimming outward or ‘overenthusiastic’ growth, trim shoots back to just after the next series of leaves, but don’t cut the foliage as such.

Leaf pruning (also known as defoliation) in bonsai is used for several deciduous and tropical plants such as Read the rest of this entry »